Sure, it’s got four sides, a top and a bottom – but it may not be meant for moving.  For items that require care, or a large handling capacity (such as heavy books) , going to the nearest grocery or retail store for cardboard headed to the dumpster may not cut it.

First thing to do is to get organized.  Find out an estimate of how many durable moving boxes you’ll need.  For lighter things (such as bedding), a box may not even be necessary.  What you want to look out for are things made of glass (dishware, frames, décor, etc.) or things that are otherwise heavy, even if they are not necessarily fragile (such as books or bathroom toiletries containing liquid, like shampoo bottles, etc.).  The fragile and weighty items will need special packing boxes that are more durable at the bottom, seal well at the top and come with packing material such as tape and bubble wrap.  Used boxes will have already lost much of their lifespan – think of all the travel and movement they would have gone through before even reaching the retail store you found them at.

Next, pack the big things first.  You may not end up filling the boxes right away.  Keep this analogy in mind:  filling a jar to the uttermost with rocks requires putting the big pieces in first, then letting the pebbles dribble into the crevices where there is still room to be occupied.  It works the same way with your moving objects.  After the larger items are in place, begin snuggling the smaller and medium-sized things in, arranging things so there is as little space as possible for shifting around during the move.

When you’ve done your best to fill up as many empty spaces as possible in the boxes, don’t neglect the little holes – they can be hazardous to your valuables if there is ever a big shake in the moving process.  Use Styrofoam popcorn or bubble tape to cushion things against.  If you run out, you can always go homemade and make use of plastic grocery bags you were planning on throwing out anyway.  A great way to stay green in your move…
Finally, remember to stay organized.  Just because you want to put big things in boxes first, then little things, don’t let objects get out of place or you will have a hard time finding them later on.  Keep a list of categories that you will remember when unpacking.  For example, a certain set of boxes will contain only “kitchen ware” or “books” or “bathroom stuff”, and so on.  In other words, don’t put your shampoo with your kitchen plates just because it fits a hole! Of course, label all your boxes with as much detail as possible, even if you do end up doing a little mixing – that will make settling into your new destination a breeze.

EARLY SPRING LAWN CARE
• Keep off the lawn in the spring until the ground has dried and is firm to walk on.
• Rake up debris, dead grass, leaves, etc.
• Roll “frost bumps” with a light roller.
• Apply So-Green ULTRA Lawn Fertilizer.
• If crabgrass was a problem last year apply So-Green ULTRA Lawn Fertilizer and Crabgrass Preventer.

LATE SPRING/SUMMER LAWN CARE
• Follow watering and mowing suggestions listed below.
• Apply So-Green ULTRA Lawn Fertilizer.
• If lawn weeds are a problem, apply So-Green ULTRA Weed & Feed.
• If insects are a problem, GrubOut® will control most lawn insect problems.

FALL LAWN CARE
• Follow watering and mowing suggestions listed below.
• Apply So-Green ULTRA Winterizing Fertilizer.
• If lawn weeds are a problem, apply So-Green ULTRA Winterizing Weed & Feed.

WATERING
• Most lawns require a minimum of 2.5cm (1″) of water per week during the summer.
• In dry conditions, water heavily once a week as opposed to a daily sprinkling (daily sprinkling encourages shallow roots, which will increase the chance of burn during hot spells).
• Try to wet the entire root zone.
• Do not water at night – the chance of fungus developing is increased.
• Use a rain gauge or aluminum pie plate to measure if the correct amount of water is being applied.

MOWING
• Ensure mower blade is sharp to prevent frayed appearance.
• Mow to 5cm to 7.5cm (2″-3″) in spring and fall.
• Raise mower another 1cm (1/2″) during hot weather to improve drought resistance.
• Never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade at one mowing.
• Change direction of the cut each time to keep coarse grasses under control and ensure an even surface.

AERATION
• Dethatching is no longer a recommended practice on home lawns. It creates openings for weed germination and causes stress to the existing turf. Aeration is now recommended for decreasing thatch as well as compaction.
• Aeration once a year will decrease thatch as well as increase the amount of air, water and nutrients getting to the soil.
• Aeration before an application of fertilizer will allow nutrients easier access to root systems.

FERTILIZER APPLICATION
• Read the label completely before using.
• Remove debris, toys, etc from the lawn.
• Use a good broadcast spreader with an accurate flow setting.
• Wash and lubricate spreader after use.
• Fill the spreader on the drive or walk and not on the lawn.
• Sweep up spilt fertilizer.
• Shut off the spreader when stopping or turning.
• Apply half of the required fertilizer in one direction on the lawn (i.e. north/south). Apply the remaining fertilizer across the lawn (i.e. east/west). This will help to provide even coverage and prevent streaking from missed spots and overlap.
• Do not apply Weed & Feed when rain is expected.
• Do not water the lawn for 48 hours after applying Weed & Feed.
• Store any remaining fertilizer in a cool dry place.
• Wash hands after using fertilizer.

HOW TO CALIBRATE YOUR FERTILIZER SPREADER
If your spreader’s setting is not listed on the bag, you can determine which setting to use by conducting this simple test:

1. Read all directions and precautions on the bag.
2. Weigh out enough of the fertilizer to cover 100m2 and put it in the spreader. (Bathroom scales will help you do this.)
3. Set your spreader on a low setting. (Usually one quarter of the way open is a good starting point.)
4. Spread the material you put in the spreader over 100m2 (10m x 10m) [1076 sq. ft. (33 ft x 33 ft)].
5. Ideally the product will run out when you get to the end of the 100m2 area. If you have a little left over. Increase the setting slightly. If you don’t have enough to cover the full 100m2, reduce the setting slightly.
6. Write the setting and product name on a piece of tape and apply to the spreader for future reference.

SOIL pH OR ACIDITY
Soil pH is defined as “potential hydrogen” but a more accurate description is “hydrogen ion concentration”. It is a scale used to measure the acidity or alkalinity of soil. Soil amendments such as lime, gypsum and sulphur in conjunction with fertilization are typically used to help adjust pH of soil.

In general, a pH of 7.0 (neutral) is most desirable for overall nutrient availability. A low pH (acidic soils) can be corrected using a lime. A high pH (alkaline soils) can usually be corrected by adding sulphur or ammonium or other acidifiers like aluminum sulphate. Remember that a soil pH of 5.0 is ten times more acidic than a soil with a pH of 6.0.

New Versus Remodeled Kitchen
Even if your old kitchen is falling apart it doesn’t necessarily mean you have to tear the whole room apart and start from scratch. On this page, we will show you the pros and cons of remodeling your kitchen as opposed to completely building a new one. You might be surprised how a few decorative changes can go a long way to revitalizing your kitchen.

Designing a Kitchen on a Budget
It’s easy for home projects to spiral out of control. Whenever you are rebuilding or renovating a room there are always hundreds of small expenses you never considered when your were in the planning stage. While these costs are unavoidable, there are ways to keep the price down.

Hiring a Professional to Design a Kitchen
While designing your own kitchen will save you money the headache it causes might not be worth the extra dollars. A professional who designs kitchens for a living can really simplify the process.

Kitchen Size Considerations
You have a dream kitchen in mind and it looks great in the magazine, but the actual space you have in your house might not be compatible with your dream. As with any home project, you have to balance practicality with your grandest wishes.

Kitchen Shape Considerations
Next to size, the shape of your kitchen space can your biggest design headache. There are three main types of kitchen shapes the U shape, the L shape, and the G shape. We will also show you how to manage a small, or galley, kitchen.

Kitchen Islands
A kitchen island can be a cheap and attractive way to expand your counter space. An island can also help you add a second sink, dishwasher or oven to your kitchen.